Introduction
When you think of climbing in France, what’s the first destination that comes to mind? If you’re a boulderer, perhaps Fontainebleau.
As a rock climber, I always dreamed of Chamonix, imagining myself scaling granite walls with the Mont Blanc massif in the background. But after visiting Chamonix, I realized that while it’s spectacular, it’s truly a paradise for alpine climbers.
So where is the landmark destination for sport climbing in France? Historically, Buoux might have claimed that title. Today, for climbers worldwide, it’s Céüse.
My Céüse Dream
I first heard of Céüse during a summer trip in 2020, while visiting Briançon and Ailefroide. A friend mentioned a legendary cliff nearby, and when I saw pictures of that beautiful arc of limestone, I was hooked. I told myself, “I have to climb there someday.”
I didn’t even know then that Céüse was home to Biographie, the world’s first 9a+ sport route. My knowledge and ambition were pretty modest back then 😅 —but the dream was planted.
Finally, I had the chance to visit Céüse and climb there myself. In this post, I’ll share my experience—routes, approach, camping, and useful tips—for anyone planning their first trip.
Where is Céüse?
Céüse is in the Hautes-Alpes region of southeastern France, between Provence and the Alps. The cliff sits at around 2000 meters elevation.
🚗 Approximate driving times:
Lyon → 3 hours
Marseille → 2 hours
Briançon → just under 2 hours
Why Climbers Love Céüse
Céüse is legendary for its hard routes—Biographie (9a+), Bibliographie (9b+)—but it offers plenty for those climbing at more moderate levels. If you enjoy routes around 7a, you’ll find challenges that inspire and push you.
Other reasons to love Céüse:
The high altitude makes it cooler than many European crags, even in the height of summer.
The limestone is exceptional: steep, pocketed, with great friction.
The views from the cliff are breathtaking.
Climbing Season and Gear
Best season: June to August. Thanks to the altitude, it stays cooler and more pleasant during summer.
Recommended rope: 80m or longer.
Quickdraws: Bring at least 16. Many routes need 14-16 draws.
Guidebook: Céüse 2023 (available at La Maison de Céüze / tourist office).
*Check the guidebook before climbing—some routes may require longer ropes or more gear. Most routes are well-bolted and have solid anchors with rings.
The Approach 🚶🏼♀️🚶🏼
The approach is part of the Céüse experience. From the Col des Guérins parking (1312m), it’s about 500m of elevation gain and roughly an hour’s uphill hike to the cliff (around 1700m). Many climbers, myself included, haul gear up on the first day and leave it stashed (at your own risk) to lighten the load for the rest of the trip.
Is the approach tough? Opinions vary. After climbing in the summer heat at crags like Wild Boar Gorge (Izu Jo-Yama, Japan), I found Céüse’s cooler temps and fresh air more than worth the hike 😆 The descent, with its alpine breeze, felt rewarding every time.
On some days, we started early (around 8:30 AM) to enjoy the cooler morning air. But by midday, the heat often sapped our energy and we’d end up lounging in the shade until late afternoon.
One surprise: the insects! 🪰 I didn’t expect flies or mosquitoes at this altitude, but on our first couple of days they were plentiful. It got easier to ignore them over time, but consider bringing insect repellent along with sunscreen.
Extra Notes
Water: I carried about 1.5 liters per session, but you might want more depending on conditions.
Warm clothing: Even in summer, evenings and shady areas can be chilly. I sometimes wore a down jacket when resting. (During my visit, daytime temperatures in Sigoyer were around 30°C.)
Easier trail: If heading to Grand Face, the approach via Biographie sector felt gentler compared to the more direct trail.
Typical Céüse Climbing Day
Most climbers aim for afternoon sessions, leaving the parking around 1-2 PM and climbing until 7-8 PM. If you head up in the morning, you might have the entire crag to yourself—an unforgettable luxury.
Camping at Céüse 🏕
I stayed at the new campsite run by La Maison de Céüze. It was clean, quiet, and comfortable.
🚾 Toilets were standard western-style. Bring your own toilet paper.
🚿 Hot showers were available, though sometimes temperamental.
🔌 We charged devices at La Maison de Céüze (the tourist office).
📶 WiFi was also available at the tourist office.
If this site is full, you can try Camping Guérins, the older campsite nearby. There are also gîtes (simple lodges) in the area if you prefer not to camp.
Food and Supplies
There are no shops near Céüse. We stocked up at supermarkets in Gap and cooked our meals at the campsite using gas stoves. Open fires are not allowed.
A great bonus: you can pre-order fresh bread at La Maison de Céüze by 6 PM for pickup the next morning. This was super convenient and felt like a little luxury in the mountains.
On our last evening, we celebrated with pizza at Le Crux - Céüse, a restaurant near the crag.
La Maison de Céüze
This small center is the hub for climbers:
Buy the Céüse 2023 guidebook
Order bread
Charge devices
Use WiFi
Indoor wall for warming up or rainy-day training
Opening hours: 9 AM–12 PM, 3 PM–7 PM.
Tip: Check for updated info when you arrive. Facilities or services may vary by season.
My Impressions of the Climbing Sectors
Grande Face
Grades are generally friendlier here, with closer bolts and less runout than the classic sectors. Other climbers told me this is the “softest” area in terms of grading. Routes were pure fun, and it’s one of the first areas to get shade in summer.
Berlin
One of my favorites—huge vertical walls with clean, striking lines. I didn’t climb the signature routes, but just being there was inspiring.
Biographie
Without doubt, the most breathtaking sector. Standing beneath that monumental wall filled me with awe. I couldn’t climb anything there at my level 😆 but it was worth the visit for the view alone.
If it’s your first time at Céüse, I recommend starting at Grande Face to get used to the style and atmosphere, and then exploring other sectors as you gain confidence.
Final Thoughts
Céüse is both a physical challenge and a visual wonder. It offers a climbing experience like no other. I hope this guide helps you plan your first visit—and inspires you to experience the magic of Céüse yourself.
0コメント