Struggling at Kuhfels in the Vosges: How to Overcome Routes That Feel Just Out of Reach?

When climbing outdoors, you inevitably encounter two types of routes: those that flow naturally with your rhythm and those that feel completely off. By rhythm, I mean the intuitive sequence of movements - where reaching with your right hand naturally leads to a left hand move. When the rhythm is right, everything feels smooth, but when it’s off, you end up using unnecessary strength and burning out quickly.

L’éloge de l’ombre (7a+) at Kuhfels

During my latest session, I took on L’éloge de l’ombre (7a+) at Kuhfels, a lesser-known climbing spot in the Vosges Mountains. This was exactly the kind of route that disrupted my rhythm. The first section, up to the second bolt, was especially powerful, draining my energy before I even reached the crux. At first, I thought, If I’m fresh, I can just muscle my way through this. But after several attempts, I realized brute force wasn’t going to cut it.

Reevaluating the Beta: Finding a Breakthrough

After analyzing my moves, I found the issue - I was overusing my Right hand. The sequence looked like this: 

1️⃣ Start → Left-hand pocket

2️⃣ Right-hand pocket

3️⃣ Right-hand crimp

4️⃣ High step → Left-hand crimp

5️⃣ Right-hand cross to a pinch

6️⃣ Right-hand shoulder move → Clip 

The most challenging part was the transition from the right-hand pocket to the left-hand crimp, which followed a crack where holds were hard to see. Each attempt, I hesitated, wasting energy and losing efficiency. To fix this, I focused on precisely hitting the holds through repeated practice. Once I dialed in the moves, I could execute them more fluidly and conserve energy.

The Send! 

With better flow and improved efficiency, I preserved my strength for the crux and finally sent L’éloge de l’ombre (7a+)! This climb was a strong reminder that trusting the grade and forcing moves doesn’t always work - refining beta and finding the right rhythm is often the key to success.

Outdoor Climbing Tip: Focus on Your Flow 

Unlike in the gym, outdoor climbing doesn’t provide clearly marked holds. Every move is a choice - where to grab, how to move, and what beta works best for you. 

If you ever find yourself struggling with a route that doesn’t feel right, take a step back and analyze your sequence. Adjusting your rhythm might be the breakthrough you need!