Tucked away in the Dodecanese Islands in the southeastern Aegean Sea, Greece 🇬🇷, Kalymnos has become one of Europe's premier rock climbing destinations. Known not only for its stunning rock formations, but also for its deep connection to the natural sponge, the island offers an unforgettable experience to climbers from all over the world.
Kalymnos boasts 99 climbing areas and more than 4,200 routes, as listed in the 2023 edition of the Climbing Topo. I spent 10 incredible days on the island in 2014, and in this blog I'll take you through my journey and give you tips for your own trip to this climbing paradise.
Finding Climbing Partners
As a solo traveler, my first concern was whether I would be able to find a climbing partner on the island. Fortunately, Kalymnos has a thriving and welcoming climbing community.
On my first day, I went to the climbing areas without a plan and found a partner right away. For the rest of my trip, I used the "Climbing Partner Needed!" forum on the Climb Kalymnos website, which proved to be a great resource.
If you're also traveling alone, you'll be pleasantly surprised at how easy it is to connect with others, especially during peak seasons. While climbing with new partners carries some risks - belaying styles and skill levels can vary - my experience has been overwhelmingly positive. I met climbers from France, Sweden, Finland, Canada, Italy, and Norway, and we bonded over shared experiences on the rock and stories about life back home.
Climbing Routes and Equipment
Kalymnos is known for its well-bolted routes, and the climbing grades tend to be a little softer than elsewhere, making it an excellent destination for climbers of all levels. With tourism driving the local economy, route maintenance is taken seriously, ensuring safety and keeping climbers coming back year after year.
Climbing Guidebook: Kalymnos 2023
Climbing Guidebook and Route Information:
The climbing topo is available in almost every shop in Masouri, the main climbing center. Many new routes are not listed in the guidebook, so I recommend printing out the updated Kalymnos New Route List before you go. If you forget it, no worries - it sells for about €5 in town (2014).
For the latest information on topos, always check 👉🏻 Climb Kalymnos.com Guidebook.
Here's what you need to bring:
Climbing rope: 80m: Ideal for most routes.
Quickdraws: 20: Although 14 is often enough, depending on the route.
Belay device: I recommend Petzl's Grigri, especially for the longer climbs on Kalymnos.
Helmet: A good idea for protection on certain climbs where loose rock can be a problem.
Prism goggles are a lifesaver on Kalymnos' long, overhanging routes, saving your neck from strain during those long belay sessions.
Access to climbing areas
Masouri is the perfect base for your climbing adventure, with many crags like Grande Grotta and Odyssey just a short walk away. For more remote areas or the neighboring island of Telendos, you'll need transportation, such as a rented motorcycle or a short boat ride.
Best time to climb in Kalymnos
The best months for climbing on Kalymnos are October, November, April and May, when temperatures are comfortable, hovering around 25°C during the day. During my October trip (11th-20th), the days were warm, but the shade provided a welcome chill - perfect for climbing. Climbing in the morning is most comfortable, while in the afternoon you have to watch out for direct sunlight.
My Kalymnos Climbing Tour 2014:
Day 0: Arrival in Kalymnos
Day 1: Afternoon ➡️ SPARTAN ➡️ SPARTACUS
Day 2: Telendos Island
Day 3: POETS ➡️ IANNIS
Day 4: ODYSSEY
Day 5: KALYDNA
Day 6: Rest 🏊🏻🏖🌊 Massouri Beach
Day 7: SIKATI CAVE
Day 8: Grande Grotta ➡️ PANORAMA
Day 9: From Kalymnos via Athens to Meteora
The climbing areas I would recommend are Grande Grotta and Sikati Cave.
Grande Grotta:
Grande Grotta is a world-renowned climbing area best known for its massive, steeply overhanging cave formations. It attracts climbers from all over the world and is particularly famous for its Big Roof - large, overhanging sections that require a high degree of stamina, strength and advanced climbing techniques.
The terrain offers a mix of inspiring, exposed climbing and sometimes the sensation of climbing in a 3D environment due to its unique rock formations. These features make for an exciting experience, but also add to the technical difficulty.
Sikati Cave:
Sikati Cave is an extraordinary and breathtaking climbing site. This massive, roofless sinkhole, 50-60 meters in diameter and up to 70 meters deep, has towering walls decorated with impressive tufa and stalactites, making for a unique and challenging climb.
The cave is perfect for hot sunny days as it remains shaded throughout the day, providing cool and comfortable climbing conditions. However, climbers should avoid humid days as the lack of wind can make the holds greasy, adding to the challenge and making the climb more difficult.
Where to stay: Studios in Masouri
Pantelis Studios
Accommodation can book up quickly, especially during the climbing season. In mid-August I sent out about 10 e-mails and heard back from only half of them. I ended up staying at Pantelis Studios (€20 per night for two people). While basic, the studio had everything I needed for a trip, although I did encounter a few mosquitoes at night. Other studios may be a bit more comfortable, so it's worth researching your options early.
Food and necessities in Masouri
Masouri is well-equipped with mini-markets where you can stock up on the basics, but you may find some items like pasta sauces not to your taste, especially if you're used to certain flavors. Fresh fish and meat are harder to come by in the village, although the nearby supermarket (Smalios) in the next town has meat options. For fresh vegetables, I highly recommend the mobile grocery store that visits Masouri. For eating out, some of the recommended restaurants are: Miltos, Aegean and Smugglers, which have a good reputation among climbers.
Pro tip: The water from the taps in the accommodations is salt water, so be sure to fill up on fresh drinking water at one of the two places in Masouri that offer it.
Getting to Kalymnos
Although Kalymnos has a small airport, flights are often limited and subject to cancellation due to wind. Many climbers choose to fly into Kos and take a boat to Kalymnos. It's an easy and affordable option, and Kos is well connected with flights from all over Europe.
Final impressions
Masouri has a laid-back, climber-friendly vibe, although it can be a bit noisy in the mornings with motorbikes whizzing by. If you're looking for a quieter stay, choose accommodations a bit off the main road or higher up the mountain for some peace and quiet.
Kalymnos is an unforgettable climbing destination and it's no wonder so many return year after year. Whether you're a solo adventurer or coming with a group, the island has something for everyone - from incredible routes to a friendly, international climbing community. I hope this guide helps you plan your own trip to Kalymnos, and maybe I'll see you on the crags someday! 😍
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