Located just 5 km north of Lake Garda, Arco is a climber's dream come true. Known for its breathtaking scenery and home to the world famous "Rock Master Festival/Competition", this picturesque town is a haven for both novice and experienced climbers.
With over 136 crags and more than 5,200 climbing routes, Arco offers an exciting variety of limestone grades. Whether you're into single-pitch or multi-pitch routes, there's something for everyone. The best part? Even when it's raining in the Dolomites, Arco's unique microclimate often means dry climbing conditions.
Beyond the cliffs, don't miss exploring local gems like the "Castello di Arco", perched above the town. It's the perfect way to unwind after a day on the rock.
Best time to climb in Arco
Spring and fall are the best seasons for climbing in Arco. Summers can get hot, and the area tends to be busier with vacationers, but that's all part of the fun! If you want quieter cliffs and cooler temperatures, avoid the height of summer.
Climbing Guidebook:
Arco Rock (Versante Sud)
The guidebook: Arco Rock (Versante Sud, 2012) is a bit hefty at 460 pages, but it's packed with clear, hand-drawn rock diagrams, detailed route maps, grades, and commentary. The colorful photos will inspire you and help you visualize the stunning routes ahead. At €35 (Versante Sud, 2024), it's a solid investment in your climbing adventure.
Climbing Equipment
When you get ready to climb at Arco, most of the routes are sport climbing, so here's the basic sport climbing gear you'll need:
・Single rope 70m
・12 quickdraws
・Harness ・ Shoes・Belay/Rappel Device・Helmet ......
My Arco 2012: Nago & Nomessino
Nago:
For my first Arco climbing experience, I went to Nago with a local guide. The limestone was a new challenge, and Nago's many easy routes make it an excellent choice for beginners. If you're new to climbing or just new to limestone, this is a great place to start.
Nomessino:
For those braving the rain, Nomessino (in the Rovereto area) is perfect - local climbers swear by it, and its routes are often climbable even in light rain.
For the more advanced: Massone
If you're a more advanced climber, Massone is a must. It's just a 30-minute walk from the town of Arco, so it's easy to get to without a car.
Climbing with a guide: Friends of Arco
Since this was my first time climbing in Arco, I booked a guide through Friends of Arco, a well-known local climbing school. Their summer climbing school was very affordable, starting at only €80~ for three days (2012). I arranged everything by email before my trip, and even though my Italian is limited, a little English was enough. Pro tip: Try to negotiate directly with the guide companies for the best prices.
Arco's climbing shops: Gear Up!
Arco's main street is lined with climbing shops, some offering deep discounts. It's like a climber's paradise - you'll find all the gear you need and maybe even some irresistible deals. If you're heading to another climbing hotspot after Arco, like Kalymnos, Greece, don't expect to find cheaper gear - Arco is really special! 😂
Accommodation
La Porta del Cuore
Via Strappazocche, 14, 38062 Arco
I booked this charming apartment through a website and it was perfect. The location was close to the tourist information center and supermarket, and the owner was incredibly helpful. Fully equipped with kitchen essentials, including a wine opener, fridge and oven, it had everything I needed for a comfortable stay.
Camping Arco
If you prefer camping, Camping Arco is conveniently located near the city center. It's a great option if you want to immerse yourself in nature.
How to reach Arco by public transport
If you're coming from Venice, here's an easy way to get to Arco by train and bus:
By train: Take the train from "Venice S. Lucia" to "Rovereto" via "Verona Porta Nuova".
By bus: From Rovereto-Via Manzoni take the bus to Arco. (While buses leave from near the Rovereto train station, I chose the Via Manzoni stop just to make sure I had a seat!)
Arco is a magical place for climbers, with its perfect limestone routes, stunning scenery, and welcoming local culture. Whether you're an experienced climber or just starting out, there's no better place to challenge yourself and make unforgettable memories. I can't wait to come back!
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