Nestled in northern Bavaria between Nuremberg, Bamberg and Bayreuth, Frankenjura is one of Germany's largest and most renowned climbing areas. With over 1,000 crags spread across breathtaking forests, it's no wonder that Frankenjura is a top destination for climbers worldwide.
This climbing paradise has something for everyone, from beginners to advanced climbers. It's home to historic routes such as the world's first 9a, Action Directe, and the iconic 8c, Wallstreet. Whether you're looking for your next big challenge or a more moderate, scenic climb, Frankenjura has it all.
My Frankenjura Climbing Experience
When I first arrived in Frankenjura, I was struck by how much it reminded me of certain Japanese climbing areas, with its cliffs scattered among lush forests. The limestone here is of exceptional quality, mostly white and gray, and the routes are relatively short but pack a punch - often filled with pockets that test your technique and strength. It's also worth noting that the Frankenjura is where the Redpoint concept originated, which only adds to its legendary status in climbing history.
Best Time to Climb in the Frankenjura
The climbing season usually runs from April to October, with the best conditions from June to September. Climbing areas are scattered throughout the beautiful forest, providing a welcome respite from the summer heat.
However, during our visit in August 2015, we encountered an extreme heat wave with temperatures reaching up to 35°C 🥵 But, the shady rocks in the forest made it more bearable than expected.
Local climbers assured us that such heat is rare, so don't be discouraged! 🤣
With cliffs facing different directions, you can find walls in both sun and shade throughout the day. Plan ahead to maximize your comfort.
Navigating the Crags
The rocks in the Frankenjura are quite spread out, and getting to them can sometimes be tricky. While internet connectivity is much better now than when we visited in 2015, I'd still recommend carrying a detailed map (Kompass Wander: 170 & 173) to avoid getting lost, especially if your phone battery is running low.
Climbing in the Frankenjura requires good planning and preparation. However, climbing in this area offers great views, high quality routes, and after climbing you can enjoy local beer and good food at a restaurant near the crag. We encourage you to try climbing in the Frankenjura!
Climbing Guidebook: Franken 2 📚
The Frankenjura requires thoughtful planning, but rewards climbers with breathtaking views, quality routes. To help with route selection, grab a copy of Franken 1 & 2, the most popular climbing topo. We used Volume 2 on our trip, which included famous routes such as Action Directe.
I do not know details about the availability in Nuremberg, but we were able to buy Franken 1 and Franken 2 at the campground Oma Eichler (Wolfsberg 43, 91286 Obertrubach). However, detailed maps (Kampass Wander: 170 & 173) were not available.
Climbing Equipment
・Single rope 70m
・12 quickdraws
A 50m rope is usually sufficient, although some taller climbs require a 70m rope. Bring at least 12 quickdraws, and consider bringing cams, nuts, and slings for routes with widely spaced bolts. On some easier routes, we struggled to find the first bolt even after climbing five meters, and the runouts between bolts were more intense than expected.
Accommodation and Local Food
Wolfsberg 43, 91286 Obertrubach
There's no lack of campsites and restaurants in the Frankenjura. Among them, Oma Eichler (Gasthof Eichler, Wolfsberg 43, 91286 Obertrubach) was a very nice campsite. Guests had free internet access and the owner was very friendly. However, it seems that snacks are available at the campsite, but not dinner, so we recommend eating in a restaurant in the nearby village.
summer festival
There are many good restaurants in Frankenjura, but we particularly recommend the one in Hundsdorf, near the Oma Eichler campsite (Gasthof Eichler). They specialize in local meats, some of which are hunted by the owner, making it a unique dining experience.
The restaurant was the perfect place to unwind after a day of climbing, serving delicious local beer and grilled dishes - just be aware that it closes at 8pm!
Many villages had summer festivals during the season we visited 💃🏼🕺🏼 It was a wonderful memory to jump in and join the summer festivals and eat with the local villagers 🍖🍺
Swimming Pool 🏊🏻♀️🏊🏻♂️
Freibad Egloffstein (Badstraße, 91349 Egloffstein)
For some relaxation after climbing, head to the swimming pool in Egloffstein, just a short drive from the Oma Eichler campsite. The 20-meter pool, with hot showers, is surprisingly modern for such a remote area and is a hit with locals of all ages. The pool was open daily from 8:00 to 20:00 during our visit. You can also just use the showers, and the showers here are probably easier to use than those at the campsite (in 2015, they were €1).
My Frankenjura 2015
When I first set foot in the Frankenjura in 2015, I was sweating in the intense heat ☀️🥵 I was overwhelmed by the atmosphere, the beautiful forests and the great climbing routes there.
✅ Großenoher Wand
Großenoher Wand, which was a bit difficult to find, was not so high (25m?) and looked like a Japanese climbing area. The atmosphere was nostalgic, but has few bolts, making it a challenging. This style of climbing seems more like average German climbing than unique to the Frankenjura.
✅ Grüne Hölle
Grüne Hölle is also a short route of about 10m, but the slope is very steep and there are many pockets, typical for the climbing style in the Frankenjura.
✅ Zimmerbergwände ➡️ Stadeltenne
Stadeltenne area is good for advanced climbers and Zimmerbergwände is good for beginners. Maßarbeit (UIAA : 9-) climbed in Stadeltenne area was a very good route and I would come back to this area for RP.
✅ Waldkopf ➡️ Krottenseer ➡️ Maximilianswand
First we visited the Waldkopf to see the Action Directe and then we went to the Krottenseer Turm & Maximilianswand area. The Krottenseer Turm & Maximilianswand area has about 76 routes and I would recommend this area for a full day of fun for beginners and experts alike.
Final Thoughts on Frankenjura
Frankenjura is a climbing enthusiast's dream, even if it can be a bit daunting for the casual climber. The routes are often quirky and challenging, but that's part of what makes this area so special. While I didn't get as many red points as I had hoped, I thoroughly enjoyed my time here and can't wait to return to tackle more of these fantastic routes.
If you're planning a trip to the Frankenjura, be prepared, stay flexible with your plans, and don't forget to enjoy the local culture and festivals. There's nothing quite like finishing a climb and then joining the locals at a summer festival, sharing food and drink under the stars!
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