Multi-pitch climbing and camping in the Calanques, a stunning national park in southern France, was one of the most memorable experiences of my life. Imagine towering white limestone cliffs rising dramatically from the deep blue waters of the Mediterranean - not only is it breathtaking, but it is also a rock climber's paradise.
What are the "Les Calanques 🇫🇷"?
The "Les Calanques" is a 20km stretch of rugged coastline between Marseille and the small port town of Cassis, which has been designated a French National Park. With its dramatic inlets, striking white cliffs and crystal clear waters, it's a sight to behold, whether you're climbing or just visiting. In addition to climbing, you can swim in the turquoise sea, explore the coast by kayak or sailboat, or hike the scenic trails of the Calanques.
Climbing in the Calanques
Hikes to the climbing areas can be long and challenging, but the views and climbs are well worth the effort. The Calanques are iconic in European climbing, making them a must-visit destination for climbers seeking both adventure and natural beauty.
Climbing Areas
There are eight main climbing areas along the coast from Marseille to Cassis.
1️⃣ Marseilleveyre 2️⃣ Les Goudes 3️⃣ Melette 4️⃣ Sormiou 5️⃣ Morgiou 6️⃣ Luminy 7️⃣ Gardiole 8️⃣ En Vau
On my trips I climbed at En Vau, Luminy, Morgiou and Sormiou. The approaches can be tricky, but En Vau in particular has routes that are suitable for beginners in multi-pitch climbing, and you can enjoy climbing while taking in the views of the azure Mediterranean Sea that looms over the cliffs.
Escalade - Les Calanques (FFME)
Climbing Topo
I used the "Escalade - Les Calanques (FFME)" guidebook when climbing the Calanques, but even with this resource, it was difficult to find the right approach. It wasn't just the language barrier - my French climbing partners were also confused! The large number of similar cliffs makes it easy to get lost. However, once we got to the climbing areas, the topo photos and route descriptions were clear and we had a great time.
About the Approach
One thing to keep in mind: the approach to the cliffs can be tedious, especially in the summer. For example, during the summer season it's not possible to drive directly to the ports of Morgiou or Sormiou, and you'll have to walk 1-2 hours from the nearest parking lot. In contrast, during the off-season (fall through early spring), the drive is easier and the walk to the cliffs can be as short as 30 minutes.
When I first visited in May 2013, we had to park far away from the climbing areas due to summer regulations. However, on a return trip in March 2016, the off-season access allowed us to drive much closer, making the approach much easier.
Climbing equipment
・Single rope 70-80m
・Double rope 50-60m
・minimum 12 quickdraws
Depends on the route you want to climb....
If you have a 60m double rope and at least 12 quickdraws, you might be able to climb most of the multi-pitch routes. 🙄 In any case, I didn't have any problems on the routes when I climbed them.
My climbing experience : Morgiou, Crêt Saint Michel
Eperon de Droite (4b, 5c, 5c)
An outstanding memory was climbing “Eperon de Droite (4b, 5c, 5c)” in Morgiou. The second pitch was harder than expected - it was rated 5c, but I later found out it was actually 6a+! No wonder I saw two maillon rapides left by other climbers. Although challenging, the climb pushed me to my limits and left me with a deep sense of accomplishment.
Understanding climbing grades
In my experience, the grades in the calanques (especially 5c+ and below) felt a little harder than expected. However, routes rated 6a to 7a seemed accurate. It's always a good idea to check online for updated grades and ratings, as topos don't always capture the full difficulty of a route.
For multi-pitch climbs, make sure the rappel routes are well established before you descend. Safety always comes first!
Where to stay:
CAMPING LES CIGALES
43 AVENUE DE LA MARNE -13260 CASSIS
TÉL; +33(0) 4 42 01 07 34
For accommodation, I highly recommend Camping Les Cigales, which is open from March 25 to November 5, 2024. It's conveniently located near the climbing areas.
While the campground had everything we needed, there were a few minor downsides: the showers could be cold at peak times, and the toilets lacked seats and paper (so bring your own!). On the plus side, there were charging stations for our phones at the sinks.
If you're on a budget and looking for convenience, Camping Les Cigales is a great option. Although we also tried a three-star campground further away, we found that Les Cigales offered the best balance of location and price.
A Mediterranean dream: Combining Climbing and Adventure
In 2017, some of my climbing friends took a yacht cruise around the Mediterranean, exploring the calanques from the sea-a dream trip! Even if a yacht isn't in your plans, you can still enjoy the stunning views of the Mediterranean on rest days by taking a cruise from Marseille to Cassis.
Overall, the Calanques offer the perfect mix of climbing and outdoor adventure. Depending on the season and location, you'll enjoy unparalleled views of the Mediterranean from any of the cliffs. When I climbed there, I felt both challenged and relatively safe, and I highly recommend this destination to anyone looking to combine a love of climbing with the natural beauty of southern France.
0コメント