When most people think of climbing in Italy, iconic spots like the Dolomites, Arco (home of the annual Rock Master competition), Finale Ligure, and the Italian Alps near Lake Como usually come to mind. But there's another climbing paradise that rivals them all: Valle dell'Orco.
VALLE dell’ORCO : Sergent
Where is Valle dell'Orco?
Valle dell'Orco is located in the Gran Paradiso National Park, north of Turin and west of Milan. If you're a mountaineering enthusiast, you may be familiar with the valley south of Aosta. Valle dell'Orco is a quick two-hour drive from downtown Turin, making it both easily accessible and well worth the trip.
The lure of Valle dell'Orco
Before my first visit, I had no idea that Valle dell'Orco was considered one of the top crack climbing areas in the Western European Alps. Often referred to as "Italy's little Yosemite" for its gneiss rock formations with granite-like textures, this valley offers some of the most breathtaking crack climbing you'll find anywhere.
Perhaps the most famous climb here is the world famous roof crack route, "Greenspit" (8b). This line is legendary, and it's no exaggeration to say that it helped put Valle d'Orco on the world climbing map. Another must is "Kosterlitz" (6b), a crack boulder problem near the campsite that attracts every climber who visits. I gave it a try, but the slick rock and intimidating angle got the better of me 😅 Some climbers even chose to top rope it for a safer attempt.
Droide di San Menerio
Exploring the "Droide di S. Menerio"
During our trip we visited the Droide di S. Menerio, a small crag that offers both trad and sport climbing. It's a valuable place, especially for those who want to experience the bolted routes in the valley.
Unlike the typical gneiss crags that Valle dell'Orco is known for, Droide di S. Menerio is a rare granite crag with stunning white walls. It's about a 15-minute walk from the parking lot, and well-marked cairns lead you directly to the crag. With 28 routes up to 20 meters, you can experience a variety of styles, including cracks, corners, slabs, and aretes.
The wall faces south, making it ideal for summer climbing. We climbed here at the end of July during a heat wave with temperatures approaching 30°C. Despite the heat, the morning shade and breeze made for a comfortable climb. Surprisingly, we weren't alone - about 15 other climbers were also drawn to this small crag. While we were concentrating on sport routes, we saw others tackling a tempting crack problem. This area is perfect for those warming up to the valley style or looking for a relaxing day after a multi-pitch climb.
Sergent : Via Yoghi
Multi-pitch climbing: Sergent, Via Yoghi
Yoghi 5c>5c 450m,
14 pitches
Exposure : South
Altitude : 1700 m / 2100 m *Camping La Peschera : 1600m
8:00 Start climbing Via Yoghi
12:00 End of climbing, start of rappeling
14:00 Return to parking and campsite
*The access is a 20 minute walk from the parking lot.
One of the highlights of our trip was the multi-pitch Via Yoghi (5c, 450m, 14 pitches). Although not a typical Orco Valley route, it's well bolted and provides an excellent introduction to the area. The standout pitch (L12) has a stunning crack with contrasting black and light rock, resembling the symbol of the Tao. It's an unforgettable way to get to know the legendary cracks of Orco!
Climbing Topo: VALLE dell'ORCO
Climbing Topo:
VALLE dell'ORCO
EDIZIONI Versante Sud
*Climbing topo purchased at the camp site.
Climbing equipment prepared:
Single rope 70 m
Double rope 2 x 50 m
18 quickdraws
Cam set
Slings and carabiners
Valle Orco Climbing Festival
If you time your visit right, you can catch the annual Valle Orco Climbing Festival in Ceresole Reale, a small village in the valley. This event attracts climbers from all over the world and offers a variety of activities beyond climbing.
Kosterlitz 6b & Camping La Peschera
Accommodation Information: Camping Sites
Camping La Peschera
Address: Borgata San Meinerio, 10080 Ceresole Reale TO
The campsite is spacious and grassy, with the Sergent climbing area right across the street - a climber's dream! Despite visiting on a late July weekend, the place was surprisingly quiet and relaxing, probably due to the unpredictable weather forecast.
Campground Facilities
🔌 There are power stations in the restrooms (separate for men and women) where you can charge your devices. Surprisingly, few people seemed to use them - maybe everyone brought extra batteries?🤔
🚾 There are no urinals in the bathrooms, which can be confusing for first-timers, but it's easy to adjust.
🚿 There are showers, one for men and one for women, and the water is hot.
🍖 A barbecue area is also available, perfect for grilling up a post-climb feast.
There is a small family friendly restaurant on site that serves meals as well as snacks, beer and ice cream. On Sunday there were many day trippers enjoying lunch and a cold drink in a relaxed atmosphere.
Lago di Ceresole
Explore the Lago di Ceresole
Just a short drive from the campsite is Lago di Ceresole, a picturesque lake formed by the Ceresole dam. The area around the lake is perfect for picnics, with plenty of grassy and shady spots. You can also hike the 7.5 km loop around the lake or check out the nearby sport climbing area, Pian della Balma, which is easily accessible.
Although we didn't get to do any of the crack climbing that Valle dell'Orco is famous for, our trip was still an incredible experience in a stunning natural setting. If you haven't been to Valle dell'Orco yet, make sure to add it to your list - you will be captivated by its beauty and the climbing opportunities it offers.
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