Never Too Late!Beyond the Anchor: My Journey to Conquering first 8a (5.13b) Climbing Grade in My 50s

Rock climbing isn’t just a sport; it’s a gateway to connecting with nature and unlocking the potential within oneself. For over 15 years, climbing has been my steadfast companion, a passion that has endured the test of time and brought me unparalleled joy and fulfillment. Join me as I reflect on my journey, from humble beginnings to conquering the coveted Grade 8a (5.13b) route after years of dedication and perseverance.

Climbing in Alsace


Embarking on the Adventure

My fascination with climbing was ignited unexpectedly, sparked by a casual remark from a colleague. Little did I know, that simple statement would mark the beginning of a transformative chapter in my life.


In April 2007, I took my first tentative steps into the world of climbing, guided by curiosity and a sense of adventure. Stepping into the climbing gym for the first time was a revelation, a chaotic yet exhilarating world of dusty holds and bare-chested climbers navigating towering walls. Despite my initial skepticism, I took the plunge, embarking on a journey that would change me profoundly.


Overcoming Challenges, Finding Growth

As I tentatively ascended the bouldering wall and experienced the thrill of top rope climbing, I was met with a rush of excitement and a newfound sense of purpose. Guided by a supportive mentor, I quickly shed my doubts and embraced the challenge before me. With each climb, I felt a surge of adrenaline and a deepening connection to the sport. It wasn’t long before I found myself yearning for more, eager to explore the boundless possibilities that climbing offered.

Climbing in Japan


Venturing into the Unknown

The allure of rock climbing extended far beyond the confines of the gym, beckoning me to explore the rugged terrain of outdoor rock faces. My first venture onto the cliffs of Maku-Iwa in Yugawara, Izu , Japan was a whirlwind of emotions – fear mingled with excitement, uncertainty tempered by exhilaration. Yet, with each precarious step, I discovered a reservoir of courage within myself, pushing past my limits and reveling in the beauty of nature’s challenges.


Embracing the Vertical/Overhang Adventure

Within the realm of climbing, I've found my true calling in rock climbing, a form of free climbing that speaks to my soul. Delving deeper, I've developed a particular fondness for route climbing, where the thrill lies in ascending challenging paths adorned with strategically placed bolts. While there are myriad climbing styles, it's the rhythmic dance of movement on the rock that resonates most deeply with me.


Navigating the Terrain : My Approach to Climbing

The Pursuit of Beauty and Challenge:

Beyond the numerical pursuit of climbing grades, I've discovered that true satisfaction lies in the harmony of aesthetics and difficulty. For me, an alluring route is one that promises a symphony of movements, a journey where the grade aligns with my intuition, and the anticipation of joy upon completion is palpable. 

Climbing in Europe


Training: Simplified and Effective:

My approach to training may seem rudimentary, but it's rooted in simplicity and effectiveness.


Climb the Route:

Rather than adhering to structured muscle or finger training regimens, I opt for a more intuitive approach. By immersing myself in the routes I aspire to conquer, I naturally develop strength and refine my technique.


Prioritize Stretching:

Having faced setbacks from injuries, I've learned the invaluable lesson of prioritizing flexibility. Incorporating both dynamic stretches before climbing and static stretches afterward has proven pivotal in maintaining suppleness and warding off injuries.


Diversify Attempts:

In the dynamic environment of climbing gyms, I embrace variety. Instead of fixating on a single route, I explore diverse challenges, fostering adaptability and resilience with each ascent.

De la terre à la Une (8a)


Embarking on the arduous journey towards conquering my dream route, "De la terre à la Une (8a)," marked a significant milestone in my climbing odyssey. However, the path to achievement was fraught with challenges, underscoring the importance of perseverance and resilience. Join me as I delve into the intricacies of my training regimen and the exhilarating pursuit of climbing excellence.

The Climb: A Quest for Achievement

Navigating the twists and turns of the climbing world, I embarked on a quest to conquer routes that pushed the boundaries of my abilities. As depicted in the table above, my ascent to the pinnacle of climbing prowess was not without its hurdles. Yet, with each challenge tackled and every obstacle overcome, I found myself inching closer to my ultimate goal.


Training Regimen: The Key to Success

Frequency of Climbing:

Striking a balance between ambition and practicality, I aim for three outdoor climbs per week, but that's not possible, so supplemented by sessions at the climbing gym. While this ideal frequency may be challenging to maintain, it serves as a compass guiding my dedication to the sport.


Climbing Gym Sessions:

Within the confines of the climbing gym, I devote approximately three hours to honing my skills. Preceded by a thorough stretching routine, my time is primarily dedicated to route climbing, with occasional forays into bouldering when a partner is unavailable. 


Outdoor Climbing Expeditions:

Venturing into the great outdoors, I immerse myself in the splendor of natural rock formations. With a focus on quality over quantity, I undertake a selective number of routes, balancing warm-up assignments with dedicated attempts at project climbs


The Pursuit of Progress

Even as I celebrate the achievement of my goals, I remain acutely aware of the ever-present allure of new challenges. Beyond the conquest of "De la terre à la Une (8a)," lies a horizon brimming with uncharted routes and unexplored terrain. With unwavering determination, I set my sights on scaling new heights, aspiring to conquer yet another (8a) grade route while embracing the thrill of exploration. 

Climbing in Europe


A Call to Adventure

As I reflect on the journey that climbing has woven into the fabric of my life, I am reminded that it is far more than a mere pastime—it is a transformative odyssey of growth and discovery. With each ascent, I have unearthed new dimensions of myself, transcending barriers and forging connections that stretch far beyond the rock face. Now, as I extend my hand to fellow climbers, I invite you to embark on this exhilarating pursuit with me.


Climbing isn't just about reaching the anchor; it's about the profound moments of triumph, the bonds forged with fellow climbers, and the memories etched into the very soul of the vertical landscape. To those setting foot on their own climbing journey, I offer a beacon of camaraderie and encouragement. Embrace the challenge, relish the journey, and allow the rock to guide you towards newfound heights of fulfillment and self-discovery.


In the end, remember that age is but a number, and the adventure that awaits knows no bounds. So take that first step, and let the ascent unfold—one climb at a time.

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